Julien McDonald - The slicked back hair and graphic eye is something I really want to explore when designing my look.
Julien McDonald - I love the pink vs black. It's very edgy but classy at the same time.
I have a feeling I want to create something that is mainly focused around eyes. This is because recently I have noticed within Saint Laurent they don't seem to go crazy like they used too with the make-up look and as a make-up artist who is obsessed with creating eye looks, I feel like I need to place the emphasis back on eye make-up.
Carrying on in my development of creating 'The Catwalk Look' for my assessment I carried on looking at eyes and wanting to use them as my main focus for my catwalk look. After having a quick brainstorm of where I wanted to take this catwalk look, I started by looking at a colour scheme and how I could incorporate this into the my chosen brand YSL, something that I would be able to complete within the time frame of an assessment. I decided to mainly stick to tones of green, this was because it was a colour that seemed to appear a lot in the spring 2016 collection of make-up with the packaging and the products themselves, especially in the eye shadows (linking this back to the theme of eyes I want to create). Using this chart below I have looked at using shades like Windsor Green and Perm Green Light with Thalo included.
http://www.blehert.com/lessons/examples/different-tube-greens.jpg [Different tones of greens to look at]
Once I had picked a colour scheme I decided I needed to know what kind of design I wanted to create. As I personally find it easier to experiment on my own face first rather then working directly on to a face chart I opted to start on my own face first. I began by placing a base on the eye by Mac and set this with normal face powder. I did this to stop any of the bright colours loosing their opaqueness and to stop them from creasing. I then took the two green tones from our university kits Kryolan eye shadow palette and began to create an exaggerated crease that also did a cat eye point at the end. I mixed these together as I couldn't find the exact shade that I had imagined. I did this in small steps as it was something that I wanted to build gradually so it didn't end up going too drag style, this is fashion after all. The next step step I took was to foil a blue, teal colour onto the lid which was from an urban decay eye shadow palette. I did this with a flat eye shadow brush. I then took a brighter shade of green, something that referred to the shade Perm Green Light from the chart above. I placed this into the inner corner and under the front of the lower lash line. I then took the darker matte crease shades and blended these underneath the lashes also to join the top shadow with the bottom shadow. I then applied a turquoise glitter liner by Stilla and took a small amount of this and applied it to the back of my hand, I then took a detail brush and applied a small amount to the front of the lid. I then took some natural, fluffy lashes and applied these too the top. Onto the bottom lashes I applied some green mascara for an extra touch.
I kept the brows filled in strong but still natural. The skin was prepped and then I applied some strong coverage foundation and concealer (I regretted this immediately as I had remembered this was one of the mistakes I had made on the last practice.) I used quite a strong contour with cream and then powder and set the look with a translucent powder. The lips were kept nude, very nude in face and had a gloss placed over the top.
Here are some of the images of the finished look:
Now to be critical of my own work, I would have to say that I love this look...if it was to be used as a beauty look and maybe for an advertisement for YSL but for a catwalk look, I am not happy with it's outcome. I love how the colours come together but I am not entirely sure if it would sit correctly for catwalk. I feel catwalk make-up in it's own right is art, something that most people would not wear stereotypically out in public but alter it for daily use. My outcome of this look is that I do love these colours and I know somewhere across this unit I will use these for one of my 6 looks, may it be in a different style or shape but these colours will be used.
When it came to coming up with my assessment look for the catwalk section of the unit, it was a mixture of good and bad for me. My creative process changed few times which is very unlike me, compared to last year where when I had an idea I would just execute the first one that came to mind. I believe this could be due to the fact I am growing as a designer and that I am kind of a perfectionist when it comes to my own work. I feel as if I have learnt that even though it is a creative degree I am taking right now, I am still learning and their is always something I can do to improve my work, if that be thought process behind it, the application itself, the way the pictures or film is captured or even the reason why I had originally come up with this idea, everything can be improved and I believe I am really starting to wrack my brain around this idea. My favourite part in creating a look is the eye, I love the form of eyes and how different colours can make different eyes pop, how a liner can transform someone's look and create something sexy and sophisticated. Or how lashes can make a look very manly to more of a feminine look. For these reasons I decided to come up with a look for my catwalk that focused around the eyes. Knowing I wanted to use tones of green and blue in my look I began by looking at the type of looks I could create and taking inspiration from one of the greatest platforms ever, Instagram. I looked at a trend that has been around for a little while which was this halo effect. A darker colour in the outer and inner corner of the lid and a brighter colour in the middle. After skincare, and an eye base was applied, I began by hollowing out the crease of the eye with a brown shadow from urban decay, I than used a deeper colour and applied this too the inside and outer corners of the eyes. After that I layered some blue/teal shadow also from urban decay and using a flat brush I placed this in the centre. As the colour didn't pop as much as I had hoped I decided to foil the teal shimmer shadow with some mixing medium and applied this over the top. Then to blend the centre colour in even more I used light strokes of a small fluffy brush just to feather them in slightly to the the darker colours. After this I placed a mixture of the teal and silver under the bottom lashes to finish the look. I applied lashings of mascara and began to work on the skin. Now as this was literally just off my own back and kind of straight out of my head. I hadn't really thought to hard on the overall look at this moment and what type of finish to the skin I actually wanted. I do know that I want a a nude lip preferably something glossy that will really show up and stand up on camera. Moving on to skin, I applied some double wear foundation, being a full coverage foundation with a matte finish it kind of was a bit too much for my look. By the time I had completed a slight contour and set the look, as well as the completed the brows to a thick stencilled brow it looked more like a very full on beauty look rather than something I could imagine on a run way. I think that as an industry by itself, fashion make-up only really focuses on one area of the face. Or of what I have noticed anyway. I believe with this look that I had created was really more for a special occasion and something that seems more stereotypically more of a 'clubbing' look. I believe this too be true as I think the skin could have been something I should have left more natural and glossy and the same with the brows. It kind of looked a bit top heavy on my model, but using some false lashes could have completed the look and stopped this from happening. At this point I am unaware of what I wish to do with the hair. I believe it may feature something with braids or something slicked back, this is something that will have to be played with a tested. As hair is my weakest link out of the two, it is something that needs more research.
I know that this wont be my look for a catwalk as I feel it features too much of a beauty look, the colours are something that I think would have to be used as a block colours to be seen as fashion and not beauty/special occasion. My next job will be to carry on researching into how I could make more of a fashion look, I will continue to look at blogs, magazines and past YSL looks to see what I can come up with.
During this technical session with Fenella we looked at creating a fashion contour and highlighting, carrying on concentrating on the skin. I began by creating a base as, I wanted to create something that was semi matte with a medium coverage.
Main Products List:
Ultra foundation
Mac Studio fix fluid NC15
Mac Concealer
Collection 2000 concealer (for extra coverage)
Rimmel Powder
Mac Blush - Dollypop
Smashbox Primer Oil
Highlighter by the Balm
I began by prepping the skin with mi-cellar water by Garnier just to make sure the skin was clear from any previous make up and that it was ready for application. I then applied an intense moisturiser to my models skin as she has a dry skin type and I wanted to create a very luminous glow to the skin, I followed up with a primer oil by smashbox and also applied high beam liquid highlighter all over the face, concentrating mainly on the high points of the face. Moving on to creating the base, I used a mix of Mac studio fix fluid Kryolan foundation in alabaster to create a the right consistency and colour of foundation for my models skin tone. I wanted to create a semi matte, medium coverage and I believe these two foundations allowed me to do this. I then wanted to create a very contoured face, I began with a shade of foundation which was three shades darker then my models skin tone and applied this to the forehead area, around the hairline, under the cheekbones, down the sides of the nose and under the jaw. I then blended this with a beauty blender sponge. Then using just one shade lighter of concealer (just one shade as I didn't want to create a look that looked fake, just naturally highlighted.) I applied this under the contour of the cheekbones, down the nose, under the eyes, the chin and cupids bow as well as a small amount on the forehead. I again blended with the damp beauty blender. I moved on and set this with a small amount of powder avoiding the high points of the face as I knew that the powder would dull the natural shine.
Continuing on with powder products, using a contouring powder by Illamasqua, I contoured and under the cheekbones even more as I really wanted to create that sunken in fashion look normally used in A/W campaigns. I then took a powder highlight and firstly dampened a synthetic duo fibre brush, using the small bristles I applied this to the cheekbones, nose, cupids bow and lower forehead. After this was done, I asked my model to smile and applied a pink blush to the apples of her cheeks, sweeping it up slightly to blend in with the contour. (I had seen this happen with fashion looks).
After this was complete I applied some mascara and brows just to finish the look. I then set with fixing spray.
During this session we looked at creating fashion hair with a historical twist. I looked at using the 1950's as a reference era. Product List: Heated Rollers Clips and Pins for Rollers Sectioning clips Paddle Brush Pin Tail Comb Hairspray Pins After choosing the 1950's as my era I began by brushing my Kate dolls hair through to take out any tangles of knots that were there. Once I had completed this I sectioned the front of the hair off and applied blue and red rollers across the front of the face. Where the blue roller meets the red roller is where I created an exaggerated parting across the head. I placed the red roller going in the different direction as I need I wanted to had to go backwards here and be clipped into place. Once the blue and red rollers where in place I did a typical brick work down the back of the head using the smaller, white and yellow rollers as I wanted to create curls that would stay not just volume like the blue and red ones create. I left this too cool for about 20 minutes and then took the heated rollers out, Starting with the ones I firstly placed in.
I removed the rollers from the practice head and using my fingers slightly brushed them out to loosen the curls, I didn't want to brush as I still wanted to keep the curls in place. As this was a modern interpretation of a 50's look and something that I wanted to have a fashion twist on it, I created a style with a very big fringe and pulled this down in front of the face. I then went on to pull all the hair at the back and back comb this section ever so slightly. My inspiration for this look came from a Marilyn Monroe type of look, with the small amount of back combing I feel like it takes some inspiration from the 60's too. I sprayed the look with hairspray to finish.
Overall I am very happy with this look and the more I look at it the more I want to recreate it for my editorial look, I think it would look lovely with a suit jacket and a beautiful clean skin make-up. I think the one issue that I feel like needs work is my roller work, I am never 100 percent happy with the turn out. I feel like this is something I will only be good at is if I practice even more.
Carrying on from our lesson with Kat about advertising I wanted to do more research and have a look at how and why advertising is done in the way it is especially in the beauty industry. There is many rules in beauty advertising that images must be as true to the real image as possible, the product must be able to do what the image is advertising and must no mislead the consumer. One of the topics that interests me in make up advertising is the use of fake and photo-shopped lashes in mascara campaigns. As a make up artist it is known that mascara does not create the same look as false lashes as it depends on the brush and formulation of the product. "Advertised claims (including visual claims) should not misleadingly exaggerate the effect the
product is capable of achieving. For example, lash inserts should not be used to create a
lengthening or volumising effect beyond what can be achieved by the mascara on the model’s
natural lashes. Lash inserts may however be used to fill in natural gaps in the lash-line and
thereby help to achieve a uniform lash-line effect.
This guidance is not intended to restrict the use of obvious exaggeration that is not likely to be
taken literally. Note, however, that obvious exaggeration which consumers interpret as being
indicative of a product’s capabilities e.g. lengthening the appearance of eye lashes, has the
potential to mislead.
This guidance is not intended to prevent the use of stylised images that are illustrating a concept
or mode of efficacy rather than depicting the actual benefit to be expected e.g. diagrams and
cartoons" 'Post-production' The use of post-production techniques through the re-touching of photographic images requires
particular attention to avoid misleading consumers.
Advertisers should retain appropriate material to be able to demonstrate what re-touching had
been carried out in the event of being questioned. This might include ‘before’ as well as ‘after’
images showing the effect of both pre- and post-production techniques as appropriate.
The following are examples likely to mislead and are unacceptable: • Re-touching related to any characteristics directly relevant to the apparent performance
of the product being advertised. For example, removing or reducing the appearance of
lines and wrinkles around the eyes for an eye cream advertisement or increasing the
length or thickness of eyelashes in an advertisement for mascara. • Adding highlights and shine to hair for a product claiming to produce shiny hair.
• Removing hair ‘fly-aways’ for a product for flyaway hair.
The following are examples unlikely to mislead:
• Minor adjustments to correct for lighting problems and other photographic issues,
provided the image produced reflects the model. • Removal of a few hair ‘fly-aways’ is acceptable, even in advertisements for hair care
products except, as mentioned above, products for fly-away hair. • Removal of skin blemishes provided this does not affect the impression given of the
effectiveness of the product. Advertising uses all sorts of tricks to sell products. For example a lot of brands with big budgets use celebrity spokespeople and models to sell their products and appear in their ads. They also use the best tricks of editing and photography to make their models look as flawless and beautiful as possible. They also play on a lot of the psychological side of things with the consumers featuring couples happy and youthful which is all something we want. Re touching images In Ken's lesson we looked at retouching images using frequency retouching which will be helpful when we come to the post production stage of our advertisements and editorial images. As much as it's a controversial topic the majority if not all images used in advertising and the media have been retouched in some way and that unfortunately is the society we live in.
These retouched images are very interesting to me because it really amazes me on societies view on what is perfect. These images are so insanely re touched that it really is noticeable side by side to the original image. Though this is not to say make up and hair artists are still not needed because technically they create the base for the retouching artists.
Tom Ford is a fashion designer firstly with designing for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent under his belt as well as creating his own label in 2004. He left Gucci after 10 years to pursue his own dreams of his own label. His plan is to be the best if not the second best fashion brand in the next 10 years of which he believes is possible. He has a huge celebrity following including Beyonce and Jay Z, who even wrote a song completely about him. His clothing tends to be very stylish and classic with a range of suits and evening dresses to day wear as well. As well as an extremely successful fashion house he is also a film director, directing the 2009 film 'A Single Man'.
Tom Ford Beauty began in 2006 with his fragrance 'Black Orchid' the next fragrances he released was a set of super luxurious fragrances. There are now a set of 6 signature fragrances for the brand. In 2010 a lipstick range was released as a private blend. Today the brand has a collection of make up, skin care and fragrance, marketed as a very prestigious brand which screams glamour and sophistication.
Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2016 collection, website screen grabs. The colours are bright for lips and they really focus on the skin with illuminating products and glowing skin.
The 5 P's of Tom Ford Beauty
The Products created by Tom Ford Beauty are made as a luxurious product with only the best ingredients building them. 'EACH LIP COLOR IS TOM FORD'S MODERN IDEAL OF AN ESSENTIAL MAKEUP SHADE. RARE AND EXOTIC INGREDIENTS INCLUDING SOJA SEED EXTRACT, BRAZILIAN MURUMURU BUTTER AND CHAMOMILLA FLOWER OIL CREATE AN ULTRA-CREAMY TEXTURE WITH AN INCREDIBLY SMOOTH APPLICATION.' This extract is taken from the Tom Ford website.
These lipsticks come in beautiful gold and black packaging and the price point for these are £38.00. They come in a range of different finishes and colours. Tom Ford's newest collect Lips & Boys is a collection of 20 shades named after men from the past.
The promotion and presentation for these products are created with a sexual, sophisticated edge.
All of Tom Ford Advertisements feature very sexualised images or himself. This is because he believes in sexualising life, full well knowing sex sells in this kind of industry especially with his target audience of the sophisticated gentlemen and 20 something single woman.
Mac cosmetics was founded in 1984 in Canada by Frank Toskan and Frank Angelo. Frustrated with the lack of colours in makeup that would shoot well with photography they decided to create their on in their beauty salon. Their quite literally cooked these cosmetics in their kitchen and sold them through their beauty salon. Their customers were fellow make up artists, models and photographers and then came stylists and editors and then the duo started selling through their first counter in a department store in Toronto. The difference between Mac and other counters in the 80's was that it's staff were actually professional make up artists which would clearly benefit the customers who appreciated professional advice. Their iconic red lipstick was born and celebrity Madonna was photographed wearing it with a mac t-shirt and the brand was well and truly born. As well as creating products for everyday make up consumers they also create for pro artists and are constantly supporting charities. They use celebrity spokespeople for the advertising side of these products with the whole sale from these lipsticks and lip glasses going towards men, women and children affected with aids and HIV.
These are best-sellers in the UK for Mac Cosmetics.
Unlike many other cosmetic brands Mac releases many different collections through out the year to keep up with demand, there is different collections for 2016 which are new seasonal collections, viva glam campaigns and celebrity collaborations.
The 5 P's for Mac Cosmetics
The Products tend to be catered towards a younger audience with the brighter colours and finishes to their products although their slogan is is 'All Ages, All Races, All Sexes'. Typically these products would be aimed at younger audience but Mac wishes to create this fiery edge for everyone.
Their generic Packaging Mac normally uses is black with a slight sheen running through it with silver accents in certain areas. Certain collections may have different prints, pictures or signatures featured on the product as a selling point.
The brands Presentation in advertising and packaging is normally very colorful and playful. They tend to use colours in consideration to the normal stereotypical colours of seasons but sometimes creating an edgier style to most campaigns. They take a lot of inspiration from artists and art when creating their campaigns opening their brand to so many different people.
The Promotion for the brand is different to a lot of fashion houses as the brand really speaks for itself. The brand does not use the same type of advertising techniques like creating television advertisements but more using social media to attract it's customers but again the plus side to the brand it has such a following in the cosmetic world it really speaks for itself.
The Price Point to the brand ranges dramatically depending on the product but it would not be counted as a prestigious fashion cosmetic brand but not counted as a drugstore product. The brand can be purchased online, in department stores, on the high street in their own stores and as well in travel retail. The products start as low as £10 and go up to £100's for pro and bundle products.
Both of these videos are taken from the Mac YouTube channel which are two spring/summer campaign videos, the first from this year and the second from last year. They both interested me because of the colour choices that were used for them, the pastels and bright colours scream spring and summer to me.
Mac Cosmetics in the Fashion Industry
As Mac Cosmetics does not have a fashion house behind it, it's hard to involve it directly with the fashion industry as it doesn't work directly for it's own brand. Instead it works very closely having it's own events teams that work closely with many brands at all the fashion weeks.
New York Fashion Week 2016, Mac have featured on many shows here is a few screen grabs from their tumblr page.
These four videos are taken from fashion week last year for 2016 spring/summer. They are for Paris, New York, London and Milan and feature a range of looks for all different kinds of fashion brands.
